Rajasthan, located in northwest India, in general can be classified into three regions based on the intensity of its rainfall: Arid, Semi-Arid, and Sub-Humid. Majority of this largest state of India by area falls under the arid zone. During the summer season, it swelters under scorching heat. It is against this bleak landscape of Rajasthan that it evovled as "Rangeelo Rajasthan" or Colourful Rajasthan and its vibrancy and colourfulness are expressed in its festivals, food, artforms, handicrafts, and clothes.
Colourful Handicrafts from "Rangeelo Rajasthan"
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
In this region of India, men wearing turbans in multiple hues are a common sight, especially in the countryside areas. There are different ways of wrapping a Rajasthani turban which typically consists of a long piece of unstitched cloth. Men's headgear varies widely. The saafa, pagdi, potiya, baana, phenta, paag and pecha are some of the well-known styles worn by Rajasthani communities.
A Turban on Display at Mehrangarh Museum
Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
In the past, the turban represented the wearer's home regions. The diverse districts of Rajasthan were reflected in the colors and designs of the turban. Those from the state's more arid regions tended to wear the larger turbans among them. The residents in the area used the turban to retrieve water from the long and profound wells. The fact that there was a larger turban indicated that the water well had to be deeper than normal. Simply said, a deeper well indicated that the surrounding area was drier than the rest. The turban was often seen as a symbol that reflected the social standing of the person wearing it. There was a saying that the larger the turban's circumference, the greater the wearer's financial status.
A Man in Traditional Rajasthani Attire
Dilli Haat, New Delhi
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
Historically, it also represented valour and gallantry. When two monarchs pledged their friendship, they did so by trading turbans. In fact, till today the swapping of pagadis or turbans between two families is viewed as a sign of close friendship. Furthermore, the Rajput soldiers were known to don the kesariya (saffron-coloured) turban before going on a battle in which they had a dismal chance of victory or when they faced with a situation of do or die. This implied that they would either return triumphant or achieve fame by dying fighting in battle and their last battle was termed as shaka. The custom of shaka was immediately followed by jauhar when their women would participate in mass self-immolation. Also, the turban's saffron color was obtained by dying it with a turmeric and flame of the forest flower blend. In case they defeated the invading Muslim army, the wounds they received in the battle could promptly be tended because the medicated turban could easily be used as medical bandage. The kesariya turban proved useful in combat since turmeric has a principal bioactive substance called curcumin which is a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral agent while flame of the forest is believed to have wound healing properties.
Jodhpur Kings and their Turbans with Gem-Studded Turban Ornaments
Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur, Rajasthan
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
Maharaja Ganga Singh with Princes and Grandees in his Durbar (Court)
Oil Painting depicting the golden jubilee darbar of Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1937 CE
Painted by: A. H. Muller
Ganga Government Museum, Bikaner
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
In Rajasthani tradition, the turban is seen as a mark of respect and dignity. Each region of Rajasthan possesses its own way of draping turban. The variances frequently represent the wearer's community, profession, or special events. The turban is seen as an indicator of one's caste. White turbans are typically worn by Bishnois, who are primarily from Rajasthan's edge of the Thar Desert and are frequently regarded as the guardians of the wildlife and environment. Since white is the color of mourning in Hinduism, white turban is worn during the occasion of mourning. The lahariya turban, with its vivid colors and unique wave patterns, is much preferred when the monsoon hits.
A Man with a Turban Playing Ravanahatha, a Traditional Rajasthani Musical Instrument
Jodhpur, Rajasthan
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
A Ravanahatha Player Wearing a Panchranga Turban (the turban with five colours)
Mandore Garden, Jodhpur
Soiurce: Dr. Richa Singh
The turban holds special significance during ceremonies and celebrations. It is an integral part of weddings, festivals, and religious events, symbolizing the festive spirit and the importance of the occasion. The groom, in particular, wears an elaborate turban, adorned with sarpech and kalgi or jigha (a Mughal symbol of royalty and authority) as part of his wedding attire given that on his wedding day, the groom is regarded as nothing less than an emperor.
From the collection of the Nizam's Jewellery
Sarpech Khurd Zamarrud Wa Kanval Almas
Sarpech, a turban ornament in gold set with emeralds, diamonds and emerald drops
19th century, Hyderabad
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
From the collection of Nizam's Jewellery
Sarpech Bachkani Almas Kanval Wa Munni Zamarrud
A child's turban ornament or sarpech in gold set with diamonds, emerald beads and carbochon rubies
Hyderabad, 19th century
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
The Asaf Jahi dynasty of Hyderabad was founded by one of the prominent Mughal nobles, Mir Qamar-ud-Din Siddiqi 'Asaf Jah' in 1724 CE. When he was appointed as the Mughal Viceroy of the Deccan, he was honoured with the title Nizam-ul-Mulk by the Mughal Emperor Farrukhsiyar. Ever since, the dynasty's rulers are often referred to as the Nizams of Hyderabad. The Mughal court culture percolated through its tributary states and later, successor states such as Hyderabad, Awadh, and so on. The Mughal symbols of royalty were appropriated by the Sikh gurus and rulers as well. In today's India, the Mughal legacy is still visible in the country's heritage. Sarpech and kalgi, which adorn North Indian bridegrooms' turbans on their wedding, stand as a testament to India's rich cultural syncretism.
A Charan Bridegroom with a Turban Embellished with Turban Ornaments Source: Dr. Richa Singh
(Historically, the Charans were one of the most significant groups of bards and storytellers in Rajasthani society who enjoyed a prominent and advantageous position in the darbars or courts of Rajput rulers in medieval India. One well-known historical figure who was a charan was Chand Bardai, the court poet of Prithviraj III Chauhan (r. 1177–1192), who ruled from his capital Ajmer. He wrote Prithviraj Raso, an epic poem about his patron. Native to South Asia, the Charan caste is found in the Indian states of Gujarat and Rajasthan and the Pakistani provinces of Sindh and Balochistan.)
A Bride and A Bridegroom (in a Red Turban)
Karni Mata Temple (also called the Rat Temple), Deshnok, Bikaner
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
Manganiyars with their Vibrant Headgears and Kalbeliya Dancers
Dilli Haat, New Delhi
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
(In Sindh, which is in Pakistan and Rajasthan, there are Muslim communities known as the Manganiyar or Manganhar and the Langa. These are lineage-based professional folk musicians. The fact that they cater to diverse clientele is the major distinction between the two. While the Langas frequently serve Muslim patrons, the Manganiyars primarily serve Hindu customers.)
Formerly, when two Rajput rulers exchanged turbans, it denoted the spirit of brotherhood and mutual respect. It was presented to each other on an equal footing, wheras if it is presented by one party to another, and there is no reciprocity, in that case its symbolic meaning changes. Removing his turban and placing it at the feet of another man represents a man's willingness to comply with the wishes of the person wearing the turban. Because women's honour is closely linked to family honour in Rajput customs, the bride's parents view it as an honour to give turbans to the family of the bridegroom on the wedding day of their daughter. It can also convey the message of death of a woman's husband if she is handed over her husband's turban by a man. In a different context, however, it can also refer to the passing of authority and accountability from one male head of the family to another following the the former's demise. This is known as the "pagadi ceremony" or "pagadi rasam." Through this ritual, in which a number of people assemble and, following 12 days of mourning, bestow societal approbation and legitimacy upon the new male head of the family as he receives a white turban.
A Traditional Gangaur Procession
(Gangaur Festival is dedicated to Goddess Parvati. Women pray to grant them marital peace and a bountiful spring full of crops. The procession depicts the marriage of Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva. The god is seen here wearing a red turban, decorated with kalgi)
Near Junagarh Fort, Bikaner
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
It is customary in Hinduism to cover one's head during worship rituals (pujas), temple visits, and fire rituals like havans or homas (which are performed to appease Agni Dev, the fire god, who serves as a mediator between humans and Hindu gods and goddesses to obtain their benevolence). Thus, on such events, the turban is very useful.
It also offers defense against inclement weather. Raja Ajit Singh Bahadur (1861-1901) of the Shekhawat thikana (estate) of Khetri advised Swami Vivekananda, a Bengali monk and philosopher to wear a turban and demonstrated how to do it in the traditional Rajasthani manner in order to shield him from the scorching Rajasthani hot weather. The turban eventually become a staple of his everyday attire. It also serves as a strong barrier against bitter cold during the winter.
An Old Man in White, Resting on a Hot Summer Afternoon
Karni Mata Temple, Deshnok, Bikaner
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
A Man at a Jharoka (Balcony) Window of the Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur on a Winter Afternoon
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
(Jharoka darshan was a royal ritual in medieval India. It served as a way for a Rajput ruler and later for the Mughals too to address a general public assembled in a royal fort or palace. Consequently, the jharoka window became one of the most notable architectural characteristics in their forts and palaces due to the royal ritual of jharoka darshan.)
A Man with a Lehariya Turban, Smoking Huqqa, Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur
Source: Dr. Richa Singh
Truly, Rajasthan's identity is inextricably linked to its various different traditional headgears, given its rich historical background and cultural importance. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, it is a symbol of a long-standing tradition, an emblem of chivalry, pride and honour, it is a saga of reciprocity and authority. Give it a listen, and it will take you on a tour of its "rangeelo universe".
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